The first time we made it all the way up to Grand Marais was when we were showing Alex and Fiona, our dear Scottish friends, the north shore of Lake Superior. “We’ve heard Grand Marais is great”, we said as we were making the long drive north, but we knew very little about the town. We walked out to Artist’s Point and thought, “Okay, I guess that was cool” then we left to return from the way we had come, thinking that the town was just a wee bit overrated. Little did we know that Grand Marais is like the movie "Napoleon Dynamite", it grows on you and gets better each time you return. You just have to have some patience and spend some time there soaking it in.
Twenty years later and we’ve been to Grand Marais probably 50 times since. We’ve used it as a launching spot for the Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA), we’ve spent long weekends there, we’ve spent Thanksgiving with the rest of the Nelson’s there, we’ve seen fireworks on the 4th of July multiple times there and we’ve even been there in the winter. In 2015, it was voted “Coolest Small Town in America” by Budget Travel Editors and we would have to agree, it's “the perfect blend of edgy, sweet, beautiful and travel-worthy”.
Grand Marais is a whopping 266 miles and 4.5-hour drive from St. Paul (that’s if you don’t run into road construction on Interstate 35, which won’t happen in the summer). Most of the time, we break up the drive and stop at the many things to see and do along the way. But if we’re heading out on the BWCA trail, then we start at 2 am and bomb it all the way through. Yup, we are that kinda crazy.
Grand Marais is a small town of 1,350 residents, but it explodes in the summer with tourists and seasonal workers. Its picturesque waterfront overlooks the sailboat-filled bay guarded by a lighthouse. The downtown is only a few blocks long, but it contains unique shops and galleries that cater to the visitor. It’s the kind of small-town where you run into people you know, even if you aren’t from there. There was one trip, where we knew 3 different sets of people within the Ben Franklin store (note- it's not a very big place). We’ve run into people we know at the Gunflint Tavern and out at Artist’s Point. This place is no secret, that is for sure.
We have far more than just ten suggestions for Grand Marais, so bear with us, we’re gonna cheat the system. Because eff the man!
10. Discover the thriving Grand Marais Food Scene
Determine if the World’s Best Donuts are really all that- The lines can be pretty long here, but what would you expect at the World’s BEST Donuts? Stick your head through the Norwegian-themed cut-outs and get your photos here.
Eat some blueberry pancakes at Blue Water Cafe before heading on the trail. Make that last meal before the BWCA a good one! There are also omelets, eggs, and bacon, biscuits and gravy - all that stuff.
Get your Scandinavia on while eating some Sven & Ole’s Pizza. Good thin pizza, but I want to know what happened to Lena?
Watch the otters from the Angry Trout deck while eating some fresh walleye. This is one of the better fine dining options in Grand Marais and you can’t beat the view and setting. You may be lucky enough to have the lake otter entertain you while you enjoy the fresh organic menu options.
Other Options:
Gunflint Tavern - see #7 below My Sister's Place - Not my sister, but someone's. And the grub is good.
Voyageur Brew Pub - see #7 below
Happy Hippie's Tacos - pan-fried tacos, way better than you imagine.
South of the Border Cafe - another great breakfast/lunch place
Harbour House Grille - you can take your plate with you and bring it back later. That is if you are the ED of NorthHouse. The rest of us need to eat on-premises.
Dairy Queen - sometimes you just need a crunch cone
Sydney's Frozen Custard - If you want to up your ice cream game or have woodfired pizza
Java Moose - coffee
9. Listen to WTIP Community Radio Station.
Where else can you listen to Trivia Night, the Bird Lady, yodeling, native American drumming, bluegrass, Elvis, and World Cafe from Philadelphia? Tune into 90.7, WTIP, for this community-based radio station, where anyone can have a program and do whatever the hell they want. This station personifies some of the quirky charms of Grand Marais.
8. Stay on the lake, or in a barn
·Hungry Hippie Hostel. This converted red barn and glampground are located about 10 miles outside of town. Enjoy the views of the lake, the horse, and Charlie the dog who is super friendly but sometimes rolls in poop. Show me a dog who doesn't.
East Bay Suites- for a more upscale lodging with full kitchens try dog-friendly East Bay Suites. There are a variety of room options to accommodate large families and we love that the rooms feel like you are ON the water, the building is so close to the lake.
Other options:
7. Enjoy a beverage and roof deck
Sip a craft beer and play Scrabble at Voyageur Brewing Co. This place is a great place to hang out on a rainy day if you are camping. Grab a board game, a craft beer and some cheese curds with fancy raspberry dipping sauce and don’t be bothered by that rain. Or if it’s sunny and warm, check out the roof deck. This is a popular place, so be ready to wait for the experience. You can play cribbage and loads of other games too. Probably not Twister at the moment though.
·Listen to local live music at the Gunflint Tavern and drink some craft beer. Enjoy one of their own brews, as well as other micro-brews on draft, while soaking in the north shore "cabin-like" feel of this place. The Raven is a smaller pub connected to the main room and is a great place for a wee pint. Slow food experience.
Just need a bottle or some cans? Grand Marais Municipal Liquor store has your back. Prices are a little higher than you'll find at home but what do you expect? They have a good beer selection, pretty good on wine, and the usual spirits, so...
6. Browse the shops and galleries
Buy some books, clothing, maps, or outdoor equipment at Lake Superior Trading Post. Or, just sit on the benches outside and wait for your family.
Buy an extra layer at Joynes Ben Franklin. No trip to Grand Marais is complete without a stop to this classic store. This store has been run by the Joynes family for the last 70 years. What to buy here? Not much will cost a five or dime anymore, but they do have nice socks and shoes, as well as Carhartts, and flannels, and jiffy pop, bubblegum, hot pads, and lots, lots more. We often need to buy another layer, because Grand Marais can often be chilly, with a substantial breeze off the frigid Lake Superior (no self-esteem issues there).
Browse the hodgepodge of art galleries, boutiques, bookstores, and gift shops. We spent a Thanksgiving holiday in town and I have to say, it’s the only time we've ever partaken in Black Friday---but Black Friday in Grand Marais was quaint and quiet - a lovely shopping experience!
Photo credit: Cook County
5. Bundle up and watch the Christmas Parade.
Speaking of Thanksgiving in Grand Marais, we were treated to the annual Christmas Parade on the evening of Black Friday. The parade took two laps around “town” and was done within 20 minutes. Fireworks and a Christmas tree round out the festival. Ahh, classic small-town life!
4. Skip some rocks
The east shore of Grand Marais off Wisconsin Street has an amazing collection of perfect skipping rocks. We can spend hours here, finding the perfect skippers or perfect spheres.
3. Go take a Hike!
Head up the Gunflint Trail to Magnetic Rock Trail- This 4.3-mile round trip hike is worth checking out. It's an easy hike with a big payoff. (photo above). Expect to spend 40 minutes one-way at a typical pace, or 32 minutes at a Cormac-I-want-to-be-done-with-this-hike pace.
Climb up Pincushion Mountain - lots of mountain bike and ski trails intermingled with the hiking ones, but it's a great place from which to see the sunset over GM
Hike along the waterfalls at Cascade Falls State Park - C'mon, everyone loves a waterfall, right? We enjoy visiting this park at all times of the year, including winter when it's great to snowshoe along the waterfalls.
Explore the mystery of the disappearing waterfall at Judge Magney State Park - This park is best known for the Devil's Kettle waterfall - a crazy rapid turned waterfall turned tunnel and disappearing water.
Check out Devil Track River - You'll need to hike a bit from the trailhead to see this - but this stretch of the Superior hiking Trail is worth it. Beautiful.
Other Hikes in the Superior National Forest - off the Gunflint
George Washington Pines - 8 miles out and back.m Rumor has it this is a good place to see a moose, or two.
Northern Light Trail - 1 mile out and back
Honeymoon Bluff Trail - 1/2 mile
Cascade Rock - 7 miles round trip
If you want to paddle - there are loads and loads of canoe outfitters - some of whom are able to gear you up for winter experiences too. Dogsled your way to a yurt. Make a fire. Visit our daughter Mazzy, who's working at Seagull Outfitters. Other outfitters are Clearlake, Hungry Jack, Gunflint Outfitters, Rockwood, Tuscarora, and Voyageur's Outfitters- all located along the Gunflint Trail. They will take care of you. But - lose the attitude and just be real. Once you pass Mahtowa on the way north - you're on North Shore time and attitude.
2. Check out the North House Folk School
Kevin went to high school and ran track with Greg Wright - the Executive Director of North House Folk School. and over the past 15 years or more he has grown the programming and classes there beyond expectation. You can take classes in Timber Framing, canoe or kayak making, soap making, pizza ovens, rosemaling, wood carving, fiber arts, and many more. If you have some time, and the inclination, you can learn some serious skills, make some friends and have fun here. Ask for Greg - the most gracious and energetic guy you'll ever meet. Tell him Kevin sent you. He might give you a hug - post-pandemic, of course.
· Craft classes
· Ride a pirate ship, the Hjordis, a 50' traditionally-rigged schooner.
· Learn to felt wool, or work a loom
· Bake some bread, etc.
1. Take in the beauty of Artist’s Point
Or don't. You don't have to listen to us. You can do you, all day and all night long. But, walking out onto the levee to the Grand Marais lighthouse is a fun little jaunt. Sometimes the lake is calm and still, and sometimes it's rocking' pretty hard. You'll experience wind and waves, sunshine and rain, sometimes all at once. Walk past the US Customs and Border Patrol Buildings and the Coast Guard Station to the Artist Point trail. On days when the lake is up, you'll do best to stay on top of the concrete levee. On calmer days you can bounce down to the rock and explore the crannies and crevices for bugs and fish.
Most importantly, give this place more than just a few hours. Spend some time and hike in the surrounding wilderness areas, enjoy a craft beer, talk to the locals, browse the shops, and enjoy the best of Minnesota's "Up North".
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