First of all, DO NOT GO to the North Shore. We beg you. You won't like it, and you'll probably spend the entire time complaining about bugs, or lack of cell service or some other crap. Do yourself a favor. Stay home! Read no further.
Still here, huh? Ok, so you have ignored our advice above, here's a bit of what we know.
With the essential need to get out of the house and into nature during this pandemic, Minnesota’s North Shores is seeing more visitors than ever. With so much to see and do, it’s not hard to understand the draw. Lake Superior ( no self esteem here), the closest thing Minnesota has to an ocean - with rugged shorelines as well as rocky and sandy beaches, dramatic scenery with waterfalls galore, forested landscapes to immerse yourself in and cool and crisp mornings and evenings.
NoWe love the fact there is the natural air conditioning from cold Lake Superior. There have been times when it’s in the ’90s and humid in the Twin Cities while it’s in the ’60s along the North Shore. Bring your sweatshirts and jackets, people!
After decades of visiting Minnesota’s North Shore and so much to do, we never do the same trip. We research and find new things to do every time to fold in with old favorites.
The best way to plan your time on the North Shore is to find things to do on the way “up” and then also leave some key activities for the way “back”. Pick 2-3 stopping points and spend some time in nature, absorbing the magic of this region:
· Dip your toes in the frigid Lake Superior (see this link for surface water temperatures)
· Immerse yourself in nature by visiting one or more of the 9 state parks along the shore
· Challenge yourself to hike a portion of the Superior Hiking Trail
Our list of Top Things to Do starts from the south and finishes at the far northern point of Minnesota, steps from Canada.
Jay Cooke State Park
Technically, this park is not “on” the North Shore---but it’s an excellent precursor to the main event. The St. Louis River gorge with its massive rock formations is the main feature of Jay Cooke State Park. The St. Louis River is the largest tributary to Lake Superior. The Civilian Conservation Corps built the iconic swinging bridge over the river in 1933. The bridge has been rebuilt and repaired several times over the years, including after the 2012 record rain event which destroyed the bridge and many trails. Stop for 30 minutes for a quick walk across the bridge and view of the river or stay longer and take a hike.
Duluth
Canal Park and the picturesque Lift Bridge is worth a stop, especially when the Lake Superior Martime Visitor Center is open. It’s not currently open, but there are some services still available. Check out the shipping schedule here.
The Glensheen Mansion is open, but only with self-guided tours. They have a robust website that has virtual tours if you can’t get there in person.
Betty’s Pies
I have to admit, I generally don’t like pies - but I know that is strange. Most people love pie and the lines at Betty’s would corroborate that. There seems to be a rivalry for best pies on the North Shore. I’m not sure if Betty’s would win - but they do have a helluva name going for themselves and would likely win the marketing game.
Two Harbors Waterfront and Lighthouse
Take a quick detour off of Highway 61 and visit the Two Harbors harbor. The lighthouse is the oldest operating lighthouse in Minnesota and also operates as a bed and breakfast operated by the Lake County Historical Society. Walk along the pier (above) and watch the activity in the working harbor at Agate Bay or hop on the Sonju and Lakewalk Trails that will take you to the downtown area. FYI: Castle Danger Brewery is close by the harbor.
Gooseberry Falls State Park
This is Minnesota’s most visited state park and for good reason, the dramatic waterfalls can’t be topped. There are five waterfalls that can be viewed near Highway 61. The 30’ Upper falls, the two-tiered Middle and Lower Falls plunge 60’ down to the last pool. As you scramble around the rocks, take care - every year there are injuries and deaths here. Last time we visited, EMTs were rushing in with a stretcher as we returned to our car. Given all the people climbing to precarious spots, it wasn’t hard to imagine how someone had fallen.
Take the River View Trail that continues to Lake Superior, where Agate Beach provides a delightful respite. There are plenty of picnic spots in this area, the Gitchi Gami Bike Trail joins into the park at this location. On the other side of Highway 61, there is a large group campsite (highly recommend this) and access to the Superior Hiking Trail.
Iona’s Beach and Scientific and Natural Area
This area is well-marked with parking right off of Highway 61, less than 3 miles north of Gooseberry. This 300-yard crescent-shaped beach Is known for the pink rhyolite stones that make up the beach. Listen for the Superior waves causing the rocks to “sing” as they roll back and forth. For more information, see here. if you like pawing through piles of rock like an eejit in hopes of finding a gem, this spot's for you.
Split Rock Lighthouse and State Park
The Minnesota Historical Society operates the lighthouse. Get your tickets for the grounds only ahead of time, especially now, when visitors are limited. During non-pandemic times, we’d recommend the tour. We have hiked at the state park, but have never camped at the cart-in sites, which are some of the few campsites directly on the lake. When you're out walking - look for the Split Rock. It's right on the hiking trail.
Take your picture with Rocky Taconite
Take a left on Highway 5 in Silver Bay to see this kitschy sculpture. Described as “a Reddy Kilowatt kind of anthropomorph", Rocky is made of quarter-in-thick iron hammered into a sphere, holds a pick in his gloved hand and wears a miner’s hat.” Rocky was completed in 1962 and honors the “genius of those who figured out how to change a useless rock into a valuable product.”
Black Beach
Take a right on Mensing Drive by the Black Beach Municipal Campground, right on W. Lakeview Road and Right on E. Lakeview Road. We parked at the first parking lot and had to make our way through a few beaches to the Black Beach (sometimes called Onyx Beach). The black sand is from taconite tailings that were dumped off-shore for many years. There is a rocky island that makes for a dramatic backdrop against the black beach. We didn’t swim when we were here, but it is known for shallow water, which leads to warmer water in Lake Superior, which is typically frigid.
Palisade Head
Drive to the top of Palisade Head (part of Tettegouche State Park, but south of the rest of the park) for parking, or if it’s full, park near the base and walk up 10-15 minutes to the top. This massive rock formation rises 932 feet above Lake Superior and provides amazing views. This is a popular spot for rock climbing. Stay for just a few minutes to take in the views or linger and watch the climbers.
Tettegouche State Park
Tettegouche State Park has a lot to offer, from spectacular views of the Lake Superior shoreline to some picturesque waterfalls to a large visitor center (not open now during COVID-19).
Hike to Shovel Point
For a panoramic view back to Palisade Head, park at the Tettegouche Visitor Center parking lot and hike to Shovel Point. This is a short 1.2-mile round trip hike, with quite a lot of steps. Make sure to check out the mouth of the Baptism River, where it meets Gitchi Gummi.
Waterfall Hike
A 3-mile round trip hike will reward you with 3 separate waterfalls on the Baptism River- Cascade Falls, Two Step Falls, and High Falls. The High Falls is a 100-foot waterfall, the highest waterfall entirely in the state of Minnesota (Grand Portage State Park is actually the highest but part of it is Canada, soooo...).
Sugarloaf Nature Center
This place is one of the hidden gems of the North Shore. Although the nature center is currently closed during the pandemic, the trails are still open. Sugarloaf opened in 2005, after twenty years of restoration. The site was previously a site of Consolidated Paper, Inc and had 14 buildings. The root cellar, metal mooring rings in the rock, and boom logs are a few remnants of the logging years. The trails at Sugarloaf wind through the forest to the billion-year-old lava flows and cobblestone beaches.
Shroeder Sites
Lamb’s Resort
We have spent many years camping at Lamb’s Resort. Don’t get distracted by the “resort” title, this is a campground with some cabins and a small game room with pinball. There are numerous campsites along the lake, which are very sought after. If you are lucky enough to get one, when you leave, you should pay the fee to reserve it for the following year. It’s worth it. There is good privacy between campsites along the lake. Be prepared for the temperature change down by the lake, as compared to by Highway 61, it’s significant!
The resort has nice shower rooms and decent bathrooms and bonus, you can grab a latte and croissant at the Schroeder Bakery and the whole experience will feel like glamping. There are cabins along the Cross River. Take the trails to explore the river’s mouth and walk up to the waterfall at Highway 61.
Cross River Waterfall
There is a parking lot directly adjacent to the Highway 61 bridge. Stop, take a quick look from the top and if you desire, you can climb down on the east side of the bridge to get up close and personal with the falls.
Father Baraga’s Cross
At the mouth of the Cross River, opposite of Lamb’s Resort, there is a large white granite cross. The granite cross replaced a wooden cross erected in honor of Father Frederic Baraga, who devoted his life to the Native American’s of the upper Great Lakes.
Temperance River State Park
This state park features the impressive Temperance River Gorge and you guessed it, more waterfalls! Or hike to Carleton Peak, a 3-mile roundtrip hike which will reward you with a great view.
Cascade River State Park
You might be surprised that Cascade River State Park has waterfalls! The first time we did a section of the Superior Hiking Trail, we started with an 8-mile loop trail along the Cascade River. It was disappointing to wind up in the same place we started, hours later, and thinking we could have just hidden our 30-lb packs somewhere while making the loop.
We’d also recommend snowshoeing along the Cascade in the winter.
If you are looking to get away from people, go to Hidden Falls along the Cascade River, by way of Pike Lake Road or County Road 45. Bring your swimsuit and spend some time in the river.
Grand Marais
This is one of our favorite Minnesota cities. I call it every Minnesotan’s home town, as we always run into people we know here. See our favorite sites in this lovely artist-community by clicking here.
Naniboujou Lodge
Initially conceived as an “ultra-exclusive private club” in the 1920s with members the like of Babe Ruth and Jack Dempsey, the stock market crash got in the way of those plans. The stunning dining room ar Naniboujou has psychedelic Cree Indian design covering the walls and the ceiling. The North Wood’s answer to the Sistine Chapel perhaps?
Judge CR Magney State Park
Yet another waterfall here! A waterfall called Devil’s Kettle is the main attraction in this state park. The 2-mile round trip trail has 175 stairs descending to reach Devil’s Kettle, a curious waterfall where the Brule River splits in tow, with half plunging down 50’ and the rest pours and disappears into a massive pothole. After viewing the falls, remember you now have 175 stairs to climb on the return trek.
Hollow Rock
Follow signs for the Hollow Rock Resort. We didn’t stay long---the car was running, while I jumped out to snap a photo of this iconic rock formation.
Grand Portage National Monument
As a heritage site that tells the history of the fur trade and the Anishinaabeg Ojibwe, this national monument features a Heritage Center with exhibits, reconstructed post and log buildings (the great hall, kitchen, and canoe warehouse) and outside areas including an Ojibwe village, voyageurs encampment, and dock. During COVID, some of these areas are limited and the Heritage Center is closed.
Grand Portage State Park
Grand Portage State Park is right on the Canadian border, with a 120-foot High Falls where one side is in Canada and the other is the U.S. The 1-mile roundtrip to the falls is paved and accessible. Haven’t seen enough waterfalls yet? Hike another 1.5-miles to the Middle Falls.
We hope you've enjoyed our top things to do along Minnesota's wonderful North Shore. Make sure to leave it the way you find it, so others can enjoy this beauty!
