Top 5 Reasons to Go to Memphis
1. MUSIC HISTORY: Memphis has amazing musical legacy stories- from the iconic Beale Street known as the "Home of the Blues" to Elvis and Graceland to the soul music history of Stax Records, and the many music legends that recorded at Sun Studios, Memphis’s pivotal role in modern music history is undeniable. Get inspired by Johnny Cash's "I'm Going to Memphis" and embark on an unforgettable trip!
2. BATTLEGROUND FOR EQUALITY: The fight for civil rights was front and center in Memphis, and the struggle for equality still continues in Memphis today. At the site of Martin Luther King Jr’s assassination, The National Civil Rights Museum and the Lorraine Motel is a must-visit museum, telling important and powerful stories about the fight for equality.
3. GASTRONOMIC DELIGHTS: Indulge in Memphis's culinary wonders, from mouthwatering barbecue to delectable fried chicken and a vibrant array of world-class restaurants. Prepare to savor the city's diverse and flavorful cuisine, and leave any thoughts of dieting behind before you embark on your Memphis adventure!
4. CONVENIENT DELTA HUB: If you live in the Twin Cities, another reason to head to Memphis is that it is another Delta hub and direct flights are often and fairly inexpensive. With a mere two-hour travel time and being in the same time zone, Memphis provides a quick and convenient escape for a long weekend.
5. HOT DESTINATION: Memphis was recognized as one of the “23 Best Places to Go in 2023” by Condé Nast Traveler. “The city of Memphis has been quietly reshaping itself to be the hottest destination in Tennessee,” wrote Kelsey Ogletree, a contributor for the publication.. “Over the past decade, its downtown has invested billions in revitalization projects-- and now, visitors can begin reaping the benefits.”
But wait, isn’t Memphis “dangerous”?
It's true that Memphis faces significant challenges with its high poverty rate, which becomes evident when navigating through the city. Unfortunately, this issue correlates with a relatively high crime rate. However, it's essential to note that Memphis is generally considered a safe city for tourists. During our week-long visit, we never once felt unsafe.
General precautions (like in any city) are important - don’t leave things sitting in your locked car, be aware of your surroundings, etc. The downtown areas where tourists typically go are well-policed and feel very safe. Rest assured, you can explore Memphis with confidence while exercising the same caution you would in any urban environment.
How long to stay in Memphis?
We went for a week during our spring break but also went on two separate day trips to Oxford MS and Little Rock AK. The other 5 days were spent in Memphis, and we feel like we had plenty of time to see the city and its sites. It would have been nice to see more of their parks (Shelby Farms for example) but we had some rainy weather, which limited the outdoor activities on some days.
If you are focusing solely on Memphis, I would recommend at least 3-4 days.
Spring in Memphis
The weather and temperature were highly variable during our weeklong visit at the end of March. We had some sunny days and temperatures in the upper 70s at the beginning of our week there and cold, rainy conditions at the end of the trip. We were prepared with layered clothing and raincoats. The rain limited our activities for a few days but we were happy to spend some time at a local brewery. Be prepared if you are planning on a summer trip to Memphis, as it gets very HOT.
THINGS TO DO:
NATIONAL CIVIL RIGHTS MUSEUM
The Lorraine Motel is the site of Martin Luther King Jr.’s assassination on April 4, 1968. We happened to be in Memphis 55 years after this fateful day. MLK was in Memphis showing support for the Memphis Sanitation Workers strike and the night before his murder, gave the infamous “I’ve Been to the Mountaintop” speech. His hotel room is on view within the museum.
The museum has excellent content and exhibits, from slavery to Jim Crow laws, to sit-ins and marches. The museum tells the powerful stories of Black people’s struggles for freedom and equality, while there is incredible pushback and violence from white America to prevent basic freedoms. It’s a gut-wrenching compilation of stories and history that are, unfortunately, still playing out today in trying to limit and make voting more difficult, in banning books, and in other laws that are preventing these stories from even being told to school children (hello Florida). This museum will challenge you, we found it to evoke many emotions - many of them not pleasant. We all needed a little quiet alone time after our visit to sort through our feelings and come to terms with this part of America's history.
We spent about 4 hours in the museum, which included the boarding house across the street where James Earl Ray fired the deadly shot. There was also an extensive exhibit going through the many theories surrounding MLK’s death. Note that the boarding house is now set to close on May 1 for a two-year renovation project.
I AM A MAN PLAZA
This plaza and sculpture pay tribute to the members of the 1968 Sanitation Worker’s Strike, that brought MLK to Memphis. The strike and its “I Am a Man” slogan came to present a broad message about racial inequality and the working poor beyond Memphis.
GRACELAND
Elvis’s quirky home and the adjoining museums in Graceland are probably the most obvious places to visit in Memphis. It’s expensive, with the basic entrance admission (Elvis Experience Tour) to everything being $79.75. It goes up from there with VIP experiences. We went for the basic admission. After a short intro film, you will wait in line for a shuttle bus to take you across the street to Elvis’s Graceland “mansion”. While standing in line, you will be asked if you want the audio tour (included in your admission) or to read the signs/information on your own. We were told the audio tour and signs were the same content. THIS IS NOT CORRECT! The audio tour has a lot more information and is the recommended way to go.
The mansion is interesting and quirky - from the Jungle Room to the Billiard Room that has a rather unique folded patterned fabric decorating the walls and ceiling. The kitchen is a time capsule of 1974 with its harvest gold appliances and patterned carpeted floor. After a tour through adjoining buildings, and a view of the horse pasture, you will finish this part of the tour at the final resting places for Elvis, his parents, and now Lisa Marie and her son.
We spent about 4 hours at Graceland. Beside the house, there are airplanes, many cars in one part of the museum, additional exhibits, and my favorite part, the Elvis costumes. Be amazed by the bedazzled capes, belt buckles, and bell bottoms. Was it worth it? I would say yes, Graceland is an essential part of Americana. Kevin is a definite "NO".
PRO TIP: Before visiting Graceland, watch the 2022 Elvis movie or other films about him to learn more about his background. After watching the movie, I had a much greater appreciation for Elvis’s place in music history, his background, and the importance of Memphis to his celebrity. Also, you will need to book your timed entrance ticket ahead of time online.
BEALE STREET
Home of the Blues, Beale Street is a must-see destination in Memphis. This pedestrian-only, 3-block-long street has a rich musical history spanning blues, jazz, and rock-and-roll. B.B. King, Louis Armstrong, Memphis Minnie, and Muddy Water are just a few of the music legends associated with Beale Street. With nightclubs, restaurants, and shops, the street was home to many black-owned businesses, as well as Ida B. Wells' anti-segregationist newspaper, Free Speech.
Today, Beale Street continues to be a vibrant hub for music and nightlife in Memphis. Make sure to visit during the evening, when the neon signs are on full display, musical performances are in full swing at the numerous venues, and street performers are bringing energy to the district. It was pretty dead during our visit though - and Kevin gives it a "meh - I bet you can find better music elsewhere in the city" vote.
MEMPHIS MOJO BUS TOUR
Starting at Alfred's on Beale Street, the Mojo Bus Tour was a fun 90-minute tour through the city, hosted by a musician (Katherine was our excellent guide), who will tell interesting stories, sing a variety of songs, and encourage singing along, all while getting a great overview of the city. Pro tip: grab a drink at Alfred's before you get on the bus (you can bring it on the bus) and be ready for a good time on this bus tour. Remember to book your ticket online ahead of time.
SUN STUDIO
This small recording studio played a pivotal role for numerous musicians, including Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, and many others. The 45-minute tour will cover some of the unique stories and artifacts on display, ending in the recording studio that features the same microphone Elvis used (and you can pose for a photo with it) and a drum kit from U2's visit in 1987 when they recorded five songs included "When Love Came to Town" which features B.B. King.
THE STAX MUSEUM OF AMERICAN SOUL MUSIC
Located at the original site of the Stax Record company, the Stax Museum tells stories about the evolution of soul music and Black music icons. From a replica of a Mississippi Delta church to Isaac Hayes' restored 1972 gold-trimmed, peacock-Blue Cadillac, to a Soul Train dance floor, this museum features numerous displays, artifacts, and experiences. We spent a little over an hour, as the museum was close to closing by the time we arrived.
BIG RIVER CROSSING
No trip to Memphis without some focus on the "big Muddy", the Mississippi River. We strolled across the Big River Crossing which is a one-mile-long pedestrian path on the Harahan Bridge, just north of the Interstate 55 bridge which crosses from Arkansas to Tennessee. We parked in Martyrs Park (Memphis side) and made the trek across, then back again.
RIVERWALK and TOM LEE PARK
Another walk focused on the Mississippi River is the Riverwalk Path between Martyrs Park and downtown Memphis. You will pass through (or above) the newly renovated Tom Lee Park. This park is named for a Black river worker from North Memphis, who saved 32 people from a steamship disaster on the Mississippi in 1925. Tom Lee Park is opening Labor Day weekend 2023, so we only saw it from the bluff edge, but it looks like a fantastic addition to Memphis's waterfront.
PEABODY HOTEL- DUCK PARADE
The experience ranks right up there with the changing of the guards (at any palace) and watching paint dry. Somehow, they stretch the 30-second act of ducks leaving an elevator and running down the red carpet into the hotel fountain, into a 30-minute ordeal. And you must arrive early to get a good view of the 30-second event. If it's raining and you have young kids, it might be mildly interesting. Otherwise, it's a good hour of your life you won't get back.
CRYSTAL SHRINE GROTTO
Created in the 1930s, this cave is in the middle of Memphis' Memorial Park Cemetary across the street from Isaac Haye's grave. This is a funky and weird mix of strange religious imagery decorated in quartz crystals and colored lighting.
CROSS TOWN CONCOURSE
Originally a Sears factory and distribution center, this large complex was renovated in 2017 into a "vertical urban village" concept with a focus on arts, healthcare, and education. I had looked at the schedule of events in advance and we had planned to catch a high school band concert in the atrium, but either I misread the schedule or it changed because there was no concert happening when we went there. There are some interesting art installations and it is worth a stop.
MEMPHIS STREET ART
Memphis has a great street art and wall mural culture. This is a guide to murals in downtown.
BBQ and MORE!
While no trip to Memphis is complete without sampling a significant amount of barbeque, we found a number of delicious restaurants to try during our visit. We also had excellent service and experiences at nearly all of the places we went. That is not necessarily common in these days of labor shortages. Here are just a few of the highlights.
Central BBQ - We visited the food truck and got our ribs and other delights to go - bring your own napkins and utensils. The ribs were good. We got the half and half - half sauced, half not. We prefer them not.
Charlie Vergos Rendezvous - The best ribs we had in town. Get them with sauce on the side, or without. These are fall off the bone and seasoned perfectly. No sauce is needed.
Sunrise - Some of the best breakfast and lunch fare to be found - try The Rooster and the Memphis Hot.
Catherine and Mary's - You will spend a bit more, but everything on the menu is fabulous.
Gibson's Donuts - Delicious donuts at can't-be-beat prices. Try the New Orleans. Then bring us back a solid half dozen.
Gus's Fried Chicken - Hands down the best fried chicken we've ever had. Three locations.
The Beauty Shop - Great food and service - it's where Priscilla Presley got her hair done. Now it's a diner. Can you say BLFGT&A?
Soul Fish Cafe - Good old southern fare. Hush puppies, po' boys, wings, and catfish. It's all good.
BEVERAGES:
Crosstown Brewing - Stop in after or before a visit to Crosstown Concourse Memphis Made - Local brewery serving local folks local beer. Nuthin' wrong with that.
Old Dominick Distillery - Conveniently located across from Gus's Front Street location Old Dominick makes some very solid whiskeys and bourbons, gin, vodkas, a Memphis Toddy, and a variety of cocktails. We liked the Huling Station Straight Bourbon (red label) and the Old Dominick Bottled in Bond the best though we felt the BIB was priced too high in its class. We still have a pour or two of the Huling Station left in the bottle we brought home. When it's gone, it will be a great reason to return to Memphis.
Wiseacre Brewery - Of the several breweries we visited, we liked Wiseacre's brews the best. Plus they have a new taproom with lots of space both indoors and out.
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